A refugee camp by Bethlehem

There is a possible Daily Mail reader in the group. Why aren't the refugees living in tents? Why don't they just leave and go and live in houses? What are refugees?
The road to the camp goes right down beside a multi-star hotel (hotels are cheaper in Bethlehem than Jerusalem. It's easier to get a room now - not surprising in view of the checkpoints.
Aida Refugee Camp has been here since 1948 - set up by the UN Relief and Works Agency. There are 18 refugee camps on the West Bank - 6,000 people live in this one. In 1948, people were given designated areas to be housed - and moved away from their villages around Jerusalem. They came here. Over the decades houses have been built in makeshift fashion.

It is right up against the security wall. Our guide calls it the separation wall.
This is a 'five star' refugee camp, he says. Here 'refugees' mean displaced people. The Israelis say they can leave at any time. The refugees say they can never leave. When they left their homes they brought their keys with them: they believe they will return. They hold the keys to claim their return. Another symbol or amulet.
There is a gateway with a key above it.

Water here is a problem as in the whole of Palestine: there is often no water. The pumps are turned on sporadically. Water is collected and stored in tanks on the rooftops.
























The UN school where there were shootings in the second intifada. Yamen points to the bullet holes.
There are many bullet holes. There are also paintings and posters of Palestinian activists - most of these in prison, he says.
The guide talks about Israeli snipers, children building fires by the wall, children in prison.
It was entirely uplifting to visit a Refugee Centre: this seemed a peaceful place. From the rooftop you could see the cemetery, some burial places left in an unfinished state so that the bodies could be taken 'home'' whenever that might be possible.

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And so into Palestine

Day started outside the leafy garden of the YMCA on King David Street, a rather smart part of Jerusalem. Could not have done anything today without the help of a guide, Yamen Elabad, pictured later.
I wanted to see Bethlehem and the security wall built by the Israelis as a barrier to prevent infiltration by Palestinian extremists. I had edited reports about this when I worked for Christian Aid: it was central to much work by NGOs in the area. I'd seen photos - but still was not prepared. Why did Christians come to Bethlehem and not take time to see the barrier and understand its effect on Palestinians? asked Yamen. Wasn't this part of Christian faith? Indeed. Much to take in.

The grey Israeli side: it's quiet because it's a Saturday. No one from the West Bank is travelling to Jerusalem to work. It would be very crowded it they were. Normally people leave their cars on the Palestinian side and walk through. There are pictures of the barred walkways crammed with people. We are the only travellers there today.

Very hot on the other side. Graffiti. The wall is made of huge slabs of concrete. How did the Israelis build this? Trucked in the slabs and erected swiftly - to prevent Palestinian suicide bombers. It makes it difficult (and in some cases impossible) for West Bank Palestinian families to visit Israel.
Views of a Jewish settlement on the hills - Gilo.
A house looped around by the wall which scoops the Tomb of Rachel into Israeli-held territory.
Banksy has been here.
Postcards in this shop where there is also a crib with a wall.
We are in Bethlehem.
There are three zones in the West Bank: Israeli and Palestinian soldiers at different points along the streets.
Area A: about 17 per cent, under Palestinian control. This includes Ramallah, which we are to visit later, and Bethlehem
Area B: about 24 per cent, under Palestinian civial control but Israeli military control.
Area C: sbout 59 percent, under full Isareli control.
Nativity Street. Religion at the heart of everything.

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