A fabulous Saxon church at Escomb, two miles from Bishop Auckland in County Durham. The new, large, windows are 19th century. The originals, so high up, were clearly just to let light in - not see out. Was this church literally a place of refuge? You can imagine night's dark forces here in the frozen north, with raiders from the North Sea as well as from across the border and on the moors. A woman taking out flowers is getting ready for Advent. This is a famous place for pilgrimage she says - and you can see why.
