Our guide asks the guard to let us to the front of the queue - from the other direction - down steps into heat and a marble slab where Jesus was born and opposite the manger. A confusing bustle: emotion and swinging lights.
Lunch on Nativity Square - a walk through the town.
Then down the road to another Banksy mural on the side of a garage on the outskirts of Bethlehem, right by a car wash. Serious art.All interventions seem to touch something visceral: attachment to place and religious passion.
We stop at a crossroads for coffee. The Bedouin coffee seller is dressed pretty sharply and has a belt with a mother of pearl studded buckle, which I fail to capture.